The climbing holds are fitted with M10 bolts that are screwed into the T-nuts on the wooden board on which the climbing holds are to be mounted. The T-nuts are turned in from the back of the plate. If you put the climbing holds directly on a wooden wall, it is IMPORTANT that you can reach the wall from the back.

The length of M10 bolts may vary. Our climbing hold products are supplemented with recommendations for bolt lengths for wood, brick and concrete walls, respectively.

Course of action:

1. Drill 12mm holes from the front of the board (we recommend a 15 to 21mm plywood board)
2. Insert the T-nuts on the back of the plate
3. If necessary, screw the battens on the wall where the climbing wall should be.
4. Screw the climbing boards onto the battens or directly to the wall
5. Screw the climbing holds to the climbing wall with an 8 mm allen key

Remember that if the wooden board is to be mounted directly on the wall, it is important that the bolts with which the climbing holds are mounted do NOT protrude on the back of the wooden board. Therefore, be careful when choosing bolts. Know the thickness of the wooden board.

One advantage of making climbing walls made of plywood sheets is that you can make extra holes with T-nuts. It allows you to move around the climbing holds and make new routes after the climbing wall is set up. On the ready-made climbing boards we sell at Gubbies, there are 30 holes per square metre.

Tools and equipment:

• Plywood sheets: 15 mm or 21 mm
• potential battens (4x4 cm) to the back of the climbing plate modules
• T-nuts
• M10 bolts
• Drill with 12 mm drill bit
• Hammer (for installing the T-nuts)
• Allen key size 8 for tightening the climbing holds
• Saw, if you need to cut the boards